After flying into Jomsom and walking to Kagbeni, my trek to Upper Mustang went up the west side of the Kali Gandaki Valley with stops at Chele, Geiling and Ghar Gompa before arriving in Lo Manthang. After passing Tsarang on the return, the route followed the east side of the Kali Gandaki Valley to Tange, Tetang and ending in Muktinath. With a cold wind blowing, we sat in the shadow of the beautiful colourful chorten at the top of the Shyangmochen La (3850m), with a stunning view of the surrounding peaks in sunshine.